Q. Last season my camellias dropped their flowers before they opened up. What can I do this year to prevent it from happening again?

A. The probably cause of your camellias' bud drop is plant stress in the summer. Because camellias aren't quick to show the common symptom of stress, wilting, it is easy for us to overlook one of their basic needs during the warmer months – regular watering. Long before we see them the buds are forming inside the plant. If the plant is weakened so are its buds. The result is bud drop in the winter when they get about the size of the end of your finger. If some of the buds do open up it is not unusual for the flower to collapse and its petals fall. Remember to deep soak your camellias on a regular basis and fertilizer with Kellogg's Azalea & Camellia food monthly from the end of bloom to September.

Q. My peach tree has very curly and ugly leaves. What can I do?

A. Your peach tree has either (or maybe both) Peach Leaf Curl or a sucking insect, such as Aphids. If the leaves are puffy, misshapen, have a reddish cast and look like something out of a sci-fi movie then you have Peach Leaf Curl. A disease causes this and the only control is to spray with a dormant spray this time of year. We would like to get, at least, two applications on before the flowers open. The other possibility is Aphids. These little critters such away on the new growth and when it unfolds it can be twisted and curled. We also want to use a dormant spray at this time. Unlike the Peach Leaf Curl, you can continue to work on the control through the growing season. So, use a dormant spray now and if the problem returns next season bring a sample in to your local garden center to find out exactly which one you have.

Q. My lawn is very thick and spongy and is hard to get my mower through it. When I mow it looks brown and dry and takes almost a week to get green again. So I only mow it every two weeks. Is there anything I can do besides ripping it out and starting all over?

A. Yes, there are a couple of things we can try before the drastic step of ripping it out. First of all, the lawn you have is probably wild Bermuda, Kikuyu or a combination of both. The grasses grow from both above and underground runners that spread out and keep piling on top of each other. Both grasses go dormant in winter. When the new growth comes out in the spring it does so on the ends of what is remaining from the previous season. This is why it keeps getting thicker, and the thicker it gets the harder it is to mow and the harder it is to mow the thicker it gets and so on and so on.

The first thing to do is de-thatch your lawn. This is a fancy way of saying chop it down to soil level. Sometimes you can do it with your lawnmower, however you can rent a Vertical Mower or Dethatcher that will really do a good job. Fertilize with lawn food and cover the area with Kellogg's Topper®. This will get rid of the sponginess and give you fresh green growth. If you would like a green lawn through the winter, seed with annual ryegrass under the Topper®. This grass will come up fast, be green and then die out when the weather warms up and your lawn comes back.

Mow, at least, once a week and as low as you can, while only cutting the green part of the blade. The more frequently you mow the lower and greener your lawn will stay. If you mow it down to the ground each winter and fertilize on a regular basis you should be able to maintain a respectable looking lawn.

Q. How do I aerify my lawn?

A. 1. Water the area to a 3" to 4" depth. Aerify when the soil is softened with a foot aerifier or power driven aerifier spacing holes approximately 3" apart.

2. Rake and remove soil plugs. Overseed any bare spots.

3. Top dress the entire area with one bag of Kellogg Topper per 100 sq. ft.

4. Water thoroughly.

5. Aerification should be done at least once a year to relieve soil compaction, increase fertilizer, water penetration and promote root development

Q. Mycorrhizae. What are they and what do they do?

A. Mycorrhiza (Mycorrhizae is plural) is derived from Greek meaning ‘fungus-root.'

They have been around forever; we are just now discovering them and their importance, uses and benefits.

Mycorrhizae are fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots. They provide a bi-directional transfer of nutrients to the plant root--carbon to the fungus.  In nutrient-poor or moisture-deficient soils, nutrients taken up by the mycorrizae can lead to improved plant growth. As a result, mycorrhizal plants are better able to tolerate environmental stresses than are non-mycorrhizal plants. Since they are more efficient, they grow better and bigger and can have better yields also.

An estimated 95% of all plant species belong to genera that characteristically form mycorrhizae. The mycorrhizal condition is the rule among plants, not the exception.

Plants with Mycorrhizae:

1. Have improved nutrient uptake
2. Use less water--up to 30% less, because they are more efficient
3. Are drought and salt tolerant
4. Have increased feeder root activity
5. Create a more efficient use of fertilizer and water

Why do we need to add them?

1. Tilling and crop rotation destroys natural colonies
2. Often we are introducing non-native plants (pansies in Palmdale, blue grass in Glendale)
3. Leveling soil for building can remove or destroy mycorrihzae
4. Leaving ground fallow (no plants) can eliminate colonies

Q. What are those little winged bugs?

A. The winged bugs you noticed are most likely soil gnats. These gnats consume dead organic materials and not living plants. Soil gnats are omnipresent and populate all organic matter. The eggs are laid by gnats that come from soil both inside and outside. Merely opening a door can allow access to these gnats. The spring season is when the populations of soil gnats will increase because of adequate soil moisture and the warming of the soil. As the soil moisture lowers and ambient temperatures raise the gnat population decreases.

Q. When is it a good time to start cutting roses, and when isn’t?  Should I cut those dead looking buds off, or leave them on? 

A. If you are referring to cutting individual dead flowers from the bush, anytime during the growing season (approx. April - Nov) is a good time. This is known as “deadheading”. Roses go through a blooming cycle from bud to flower to dropping of the flower. If you cut the blooms off, you will shorten the amount of time it takes the bush to start the next cycle of blooms. This will keep your bush blooming all season long.

If you are referring to the cutting the bush back for the winter, generally this is done in late fall/early winter. Cutting the bush down to approximately 2 feet high (with 3 or 4 main canes) will give the chance for the bush to 'rest' during the cold weather. This resting time will generate many more blooms (and a sturdier plant) next season. Most roses produce blooms on 'new wood' rather than 'old wood', so leaving a large bush (with lots of 'old wood') will not only give you less blooms, but leave you with an outsized, thorny rose bush.

Q. When should I cut back or trim back a plum and apricot tree?

A. The plum and the apricot trees will both need to be pruned back during the Fall. Please call a local nursery to get the exact time. There are several steps involved in pruning these fruit trees.

Wait until most of the leaves have dropped. Cut out the top 1/3rd of the tree as well as any branches that grow toward the center of the trees. You want to allow the maximum amount of sunlight to penetrate into the tree during the growing season.

You will essentially be building a 'scaffold' of branches that will support the weight of the tree (and its bountiful fruit) next season. The stronger the scaffold, the less chance of branches breaking over the next few years. 

In many areas, it is also beneficial to spray with a Dormant Spray. This will keep fungus and insects out of the cuts that are made on the tree (think liquid band-aid), and keep the tree protected when the buds open up in the Spring to produce leaves and branches. As always - your local nursery is the best expert.

Page Up

Q. Where did these Mushrooms in my soil come from?

A. Kellogg Garden Products uses a thermophilic (145 degrees Fahrenheit or greater) process for all our products. This insures that all products are weed and pest free. During the composting and curing phases, all our products are turned 2-4 times a week. After 3-5 months of proactive thermophilic composting, the products are finished and bagged. During the composting and curing phases and just prior to bagging all products are sampled for lab analysis and bioassay (growth trial). If there were mushroom spores present, they would germinate during the bioassay.  If for any reason, any batch does not meet standards it is rejected and reprocessed.

So what happened? There are two types of mushrooms that can appear when organic composts are incorporated into soil. One is the typical yard mushroom with a round cap and somewhat thick stem. The other is a compost mushroom that has a long narrow cap and a slender stem. All mushroom spores are omnipresent and when there is dead organic (compost) and the correct moisture and temperature mushrooms can appear. It is likely that the mushrooms that have appeared in the soil are saprophytic mushrooms, which help to release the organic nutrients in all organic composts. They have found the right environment, a combination of moisture and soil temperature, to flourish. These mushrooms indicate that nature is at work and there will be a benefit to plants.  Without these mushrooms, nature would not be able to recycle organic matter. These mushrooms come from a fungus that feeds only on dead organic matter when the moisture and temperature are correct. Saprophytic mushrooms are a slender grey to white color and usually die when the soil is allowed to dry or when the outside temperature increases. Often allowing the soil to dry slightly but not to the point of creating a drought condition will eliminate the mushrooms.

Q. Will the wood in your products take Nitrogen away from my plants?

A. All of our composted organic soil amendments and potting soils are formulated to have the right balance between carbon (organics) and nitrogen (N) which is the carbon (C) to N ratio (C:N). The larger pieces of bark and wood that are visible are more resistant to decomposition because of their size. It is the high carbon (C), almost microscopic, material such as sawdust that is consumed (decomposed) by soil microbes (bacteria, fungi and actinomycetes). These microbes consume N during this decomposition. This can create an imbalance between N used by the microbes and available N needed by the plant. This is referred to nitrogen draft or nitrogen drag.  Kellogg Garden Products adds an organic source of N to compensate for the microbes needs and to insure the plants get their required N during the initial planting. Plants will always benefit from additional fertility after establishment. After planting the appropriate cultural practices, water and fertility etc., are required for plants to reach their full potential.

Fir bark, pine bark, redwood sawdust, rice hulls, nut shells, peat moss, coir are examples of organics that resist decomposition. Potting soils, because they are blends of these organics and faster decomposing organics, will shrink faster than a blend of bark, peat and minerals such as perlite or granite chips. Potting soils are formulated so the organic matter decomposes to release the organic fertility. An example would be the protein found in the bark and woods being converted to nitrogen, this happens during decomposition. Water availability, water retention, air filled space, drainage, fertility availability, fertility retention are some of the areas considered when Kellogg Garden Products formulates a soil amendment and or potting soil.

Q. Did the Nutgrass in my yard come from your soil?

A. Kellogg Garden Products composting process is a Thermolphylic windrow process.  Temperatures exceed 160 F for a minimum of 45 days. This insures that weed seeds are destroyed. Kellogg Garden Products test all our products for any and all contamination, this includes weed seeds. We fill containers with 100% of each product and then water to check for seed germination. Our composting/curing site is free of weeds especially nut sedge. Often it appears to be the product that was applied to be the offender but most often it is the product creating the ideal condition for the germination of existing weed seeds or those seeds that are distributed by natural local means. Nutsedge is very persistent and can be in the soil for years.  The tubers (nutlets) are formed 4-6 weeks after the seeds germinate. These tubers will continue to produce new leaves as long as the soil conditions are correct. Poorly drained soils and or soils high in moisture are ideal for nutsedge and are susceptible to newly deposited nutsedge seed germination. You may have had nutsedge nutlets in the soil or had the seeds deposited on the soil.

Q. How do I establish a new lawn?

A. There are many steps necessary to establish a lawn. Start by installing your irrigation system.  You can sod or seed but the basic soil prep is the same. Start by applying enough water to moisten the soil to 6 inches deep. Allow the soil to dry to just moist, when you hold some soil in your hand and squeeze it crumbles slightly or at least not sticky when you open your hand. Clay soil will take longer to get to this state then loam. Rototill the soil to 6 inches deep. Spread a soil amendment ½-1 inch deep over the rototilled area. Rototill the area to incorporate the amendment. If seeding spread seed and then cover with ¼- ½ inch of a top dressing amendment. If laying sod, lay sod light roll to insure soil contact. Water to keep seed/sod just moist until established.

The best amendments for hard soils is Kellogg Amend, N’Rich and Gardner & Bloome Soil Building Compost. Composted organics like rice hulls physically open the soil and can help to keep the soil open for up to ten years. The top dressing amendment like Kellogg Topper has all necessary fertility to help establish a lawn from sod or seed.

Q. Will my dog be prone to eat your compost?

A. Kellogg Garden Products is a family owned corporation that has been producing the highest quality composts, soil amendments and potting soils since 1925. All are products have been analyzed for all possible contaminants. During the composting and curing processes the organic materials generate temperatures as high as 145 degrees Fahrenheit, and often higher. Subjecting our organic materials to these high temperatures is akin to pasteurizing. During and after composting all products are analyzed to insure quality and safety for both humans and animals. If your pets are prone to eating strange non-food like materials and they eat some compost they may regurgitate the compost. Most pets don’t eat the compost, but if yours have this tendency it might be best to keep the pet away from the area you are applying our products for 2-3 days.

Q. Where do you get the wood you use from?

A. The woods used in all of our products come from virgin lumber and are not contaminated or come from demolition or construction. Prior to, and after, several weeks of composting and curing the mixed products are analyzed for quality and safety. All our products are completely safe for their uses. We work closely with and are monitored by the national agencies to insure both the quality and safety of all our soil amendments and mulches.

Q. Are the ingredients you use, such as chicken manure, in your compost safe?

A. The process used to compost, testing of the feedstocks, testing of the mixed compost during the mesophilic and thermolphilic stages and testing the finished compost insures the safety of our compost. It is necessary that all feedstocks be tested for contamination to insure quality and safety.  Kellogg Garden Products requires that all our vendors test their feedstocks for all known contaminants. Kellogg Garden Products also tests for contamination of our feedstocks prior to blending. During the composting, proactive thermolphilic windrow, and curing, turned static pile, phases Kellogg Garden Products analyzes for quality and contamination. The final compost is analyzed. Kellogg Garden Products follows all EPA and USDA rules and guidelines for safety. We also have an independent National organization test our products for quality and safety. Kellogg Garden Products has been producing composted organics since 1925. In all of our history we have never had any issues regarding the safety of our composted organics. Kellogg Garden Products takes the necessary steps to insure that all our composts and or soils are safe for all uses and of the highest quality.

Q. How do I plant my acid or shade loving plant with your soil?

A. For planting in containers, cover the drain hole(s) with small rocks to allow good drainage. Place enough of Acid Planting Mix in the bottom so the plant sits at the proper height. Surround the root mass with more Acid Planting Mix and press down firmly, adding more mix if necessary. Don’t pack too tightly. Soil mix should be about 1 inch from the top of the container. Water thoroughly.

For trees and shrubs, dig a hole double the width of the plant’s root mass and a few inches deeper. Add enough of the appropriate Acid Planting Mix so that the plant sits at the proper height. Hold plant in place while filling in with more Acid Planting Mix until the hole is nearly full. Water well, let drain, then fill to the top with more mix. Water thoroughly again.

New gardens should be prepared before planting by tilling in a 3 inch layer of the appropriate Acid Planting Mix into the existing garden soil. Water thoroughly after planting. For existing gardens, use Acid Planting Mix as a top dressing or work into the soil around the plants

Q. How do I plant a vegetable garden with your soil?

A. Spread a 2-3 inch layer of over the planting area. Refer to our soil calculator to help you estimate how much soil your project will require. Next, using a spade, hoe or power tiller, mix our planting mix thoroughly with the top 5-6 inches of soil. It may be necessary to repeat this process one or more times until the soil reaches the desired texture. Always water thoroughly both before and after planting, making sure the soil is evenly moist.

Q. How do I plant a Flower garden with your soil?

A. Simply work a 1-2 inch layer of garden soil into your existing soil to a depth of approximately 6 inches, blending the material thoroughly. Be sure to water well before and after planting.

Q. How do I plant bare-root with your soil? How about container or root stock plants?

A. First, dig a hole at least twice the size of the plant’s root structure, setting aside the soil from the hole. Now mix about half of this original soil from the hole with an equal portion of our planting mix. Using this soil and planting mix mixture, make a mound at the bottom of the hole to a height that will support the plant and roots properly. Next, place the plant on top of this mound, arranging the roots to spread around sides of the mound. While holding the plant steady in this position, back-fill the hole using the soil mixture. Pack the soil mixture firmly into the hole and over the roots until the hole is filled to ground level. Once the hole is filled, gently tamp the soil around the plant, adding more mixture if necessary. If your plant is grafted, be sure to keep the “bud union” 2-3inches above the soil surface. Finally, water thoroughly then mulch the ground surface around the plant at least 1 inch deep using straight planting mix.

For container, or root stock, plants, follow the same procedure as in the bare-root instructions above, except do not mound the soil mixture at the bottom of the hole. Instead, simply add the soil mixture evenly to the bottom of the hole, filling to a level that supports the plant and root-ball at the proper height. As always, water thoroughly when planting is complete. Refer to our soil calculator to determine how many bags of planting mix your planting project may require. The recommendations are approximate and may vary depending on soil type, plant variety or other factors. Whenever possible, check with your retail nursery professional.

Q. How do I plant in a container or pot with your soil?

A. Select a container large enough to accommodate the plant’s root system, allowing for future growth. Make sure the container has at least one or more drain holes. Adequate drainage is important! Place

enough potting soil in the bottom of the container so that the crown of the plant will sit at the proper height–about 1-2 inches from the top. Next, fill in with more potting soil around the roots, compressing gently as you go. Continue to fill and press down the soil in this manner until the container is filled to about 1” of the top. When finished, the plant should be held firmly in place by the soil. Finally, water thoroughly.

Here’s a tip: Perk up older potted plants by replacing the upper 1/3 of the old soil with fresh potting soil.

Q. How do I repair my gopher damaged lawn with your soil?

A. To repair damage to your lawn or garden such as that caused by gophers, naughty pets or minor excavations, firmly tamp topsoil into the hole or low spot until it is level and blends with the surrounding terrain. For lawns, follow by sowing grass seed evenly over the newly filled area. Then lightly rake and cover with an additional 1/8” layer of topsoil. Keep the area moist until the grass is well established.

Q. How do I patch bare spots in my lawn with your soil?

A. Remove about 1 1/2 inches of soil from the affected spot and refill with topsoil. Level the soil and roll or tamp lightly. Sow with grass seed and then lightly rake the seed into the soil. Cover with an additional 1/8” layer of topsoil. Keep the area moist until the grass is well established.

Q. How do I mulch?

A. Mulching will help protect your plants from soil erosion, temperature extremes, competition from weeds and drought. Mulching reduces watering needs by increasing the soil’s capacity to retain moisture while gradually adding valuable humus to the soil itself. For a long-lasting, effective mulch, cover the soil surface around your plants with a layer of compost 1 to 3 inches deep.

Q. How much worm castings do I need for my plants?

A. House Plants- Lightly scratch in 1/4 to 1/2 inch of Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro on the soil surface of established container plants. Apply every 2-3 months.

Flower Beds- You’ll notice a difference in the number and size of blooms by applying a 1/2 to 1 inch layer of Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro in flower bed areas. Cover this layer with a 1” layer of compost or planting mix to keep the castings moist. It is important that the castings do not completely dry out. Apply in spring, early summer and fall.

Perennials, Shrubs, Roses- Spread  1 to 2 inches of Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro around established plants as a mulch. Cover this layer with a 1” of compost or planting mix to keep the castings moist. It is important that the castings do not completely dry out. Apply in spring, early summer and fall.

Vegetables and Herbs- Check out the taste, size and plant condition after spreading 1/2 to 1 inch of Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro around established plants. Add a 1/2 inch layer of compost or planting Mix to keep the castings moist. Apply every 30 days until harvest.

New Lawns- Apply (1) 20-quart bag to 400 square feet. Prior to planting grass seed, rake lightly into the existing, prepared soil. 

Established Lawns and Greens- Apply  one 20-quart bag for every 800 square feet. Rake lightly into the grass using a bamboo or similar flexible lawn rake. Water thoroughly after application. Apply in spring and early fall.

Q. How can I control soil odor?

A. Not only is Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro virtually odorless (you’ll notice the subtle, earthy aroma of rich soil), it may help in reducing undesirable odors from garden composts or manure. Mix up to 20% Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro with compost, steer, horse, or chicken manure to help reduce or eliminate objectionable odors in as little as eight hours.

Q. How do I make a worm tea using your worm castings?

A. “Worm tea” is the liquid extracted from worm castings. It is completely natural and organic and will not burn your plants.

Recipe for “Worm Tea”- Soak 1 part Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro Worm Castings in 3 parts of water for 24 hours. If you plan to apply the liquid with a sprayer, filter the resulting “tea” through folded cheesecloth or a similar material. Next mix at a ratio of 4 ounces of “tea” with one gallon of water, stirring well.

How to apply- Apply at a rate of 8 ounces (1 cup) of the resulting liquid per established plant every 30 days. Be sure to stir the liquid from time to time during the application process.

Foliar application: Your plants will love a light Worm-Gro liquid spray to their foliage. Use the same liquid mixture made with Gardner & Bloome Worm-Gro as described above, and apply every two to four weeks.

Note: Be sure to use the “tea” and / or liquid mixture within 24 hours. It will lose its effectiveness if not introduced to the soil environment within this amount of time.

Q. Is the white fuzzy mold I see on my soil harmful?

A. The mold you see, although it may look alarming, is harmless and an indication that the material is rich in plant nutrients. The white fuzzy “mold” is actually from a mycelium fungus which is a naturally occurring beneficial soil fungus that grows in rich organic matter.

Simply place all the soil from the bag in a wheelbarrow or in pile on the ground and stir it up with a rake or shovel. The white fuzzy stuff will mostly vanish from sight. It will not harm your plants- it will actually help feed them. This type of fungus helps break down the good stuff like worm castings, kelp meal, bat guano and chicken manure making these available to plant roots.

The spores of the fungi are present in the compost all the time. This is normal and good. Certain combinations of temperature, moisture, air and organic material can make the fungi grow unusually fast which is apparently what happened to the bag at your house. Not to worry. Simply work the compost into your garden soil as instructed on the package and the plants in your garden will love it.

Q. Why should I mulch?

A. Mulch puts a blanket around your babies.

Mulching saves water.

Adding a layer of mulch will slow down water evaporation from the top 6-8 inches of soil. This means that the area will require less water. Tests have shown that just shading bare soil can cut water evaporation by as much a 30%, and using an organic mulch can cut evaporation by as much as 70%

Mulching inhibits weeds.

Adding a 2 in layer of mulch can reduce the amount of weeds that would otherwise need to be pulled all season long. Many seeds spread by the wind will not be able to root and develop in the light weight mulch. Also, many young seedlings do not have enough food stored in their seed to reach the more-distant surface.

Mulching makes healthier plants.

A layer of mulch protects the soil. Think of a layer of mulch in your garden as a ‘shock absorber’ for all the bumps that your garden will see. Although you wouldn’t think of it, your soil can take a beating. Every footstep in a garden compacts the soil, every drop of water from rainfall (or sprinklers) beats against the ground. Once the surface of the ground is damaged, it no long absorbs water as well as it should. This leads to run-off, and erosion of the soil surface. Putting a layer of mulch over the soil in your garden helps to insulate and protect it from the rough road ahead.

Mulching also insulates the top layer of soil from the sun’s heat, and keeps the soil moist where plants need it most. Organic mulches also breakdown over time and work their way into the native soil below. This can improve soil texture, making it into a loose, faster draining, healthier bed for your plants.

Q. I’ve never planted before. What do I need to know?

A. Let’s plant! Here are the basics:  

You’ve heard it before “just follow these easy 19 steps to planting success”, and think, “19 steps? – I can only think of 3!” Actually, getting your plants off to a good start lies somewhere between these two extremes. Planting your tree, shrub, flower or vegetable correctly means that it will have a much better chance to live a healthy, carefree life than just plunking it into a hole. It will start growing quickly, and will not have to struggle and adapt to its new home. Remember, a healthy plant requires much less care and labor from the gardener.

First, match the plant to the location. For example, sun-loving plants grow best in a bright location. Shade-loving plants grow best in …..seems pretty simple, eh? When in doubt, check the tag on the plant, or ask the nurseryperson for help.

Next, dig a hole slightly deeper, and twice as wide as the container holding the plant. This serves two purposes – first, it makes an excellent place to put the plant, and second, it gives you a nice pile of native soil to mix with your soil amendment (Gromulch, Amend, or N’rich, for example). Using this mix gives the new planting a ‘safety zone’ where the soil is richer than the native soil, but not so rich that it won’t want to leave it.

After removing the plant from its container (gently), and loosening any tight or tangled roots, place it into the hole and fill in around it with the native soil/amendment mix. The plant should be just about level, or slightly above, the ground level around the hole. Use the leftover soil to make a basin around the plant. This will help to keep water where it is needed most – near the roots of the plant.

Water.  This is the easy part. Fill the basin with water, and let it soak into the soil